In his latest book, Mangifera indica: A Biography of the Mango, published by Aleph Book Company, author and researcher Sopan Joshi offers a rich array of insights gleaned from over a decade of research and travel. Joshi recently shared his experiences and passion for both the taste and exploration of mangoes in a conversation with ETV Bharat.

Joshi’s book delves into the lives of people involved with mangoes—whether they grow them, sell them, eat them, research them, or simply talk about them. It reveals our deep connection to this fruit that has fascinated us for centuries. The tropical environment, where most fruits spoil quickly, plays a major role in this bond. Unlike more sustainable fruits like coconuts and pineapples, mangoes—especially those bred for a longer shelf life—often lose their unique flavor and aroma.

“In India, where mangoes are incredibly diverse and special, many varieties don’t do well in transit, with Alphonso being a notable exception. To truly experience India’s best mangoes, you have to travel and taste them at their peak,” Joshi noted.

Proof of Origin

Think about it: People from the Indus Valley Civilization were eating mangoes over 4,000 years ago! Excavations at a site in Farmana, Haryana, dating to around 2600–2200 BCE, reveal evidence of this. In 2010, researchers even found the remains of a curry made with eggplant, ginger, turmeric, and mango on ancient kitchen tools. It’s amazing to think that mangoes were eaten so long ago!

According to Sopan Joshi, scientists have discovered a piece of black shale with an imprint of a mango leaf that is about 25 million years old. This discovery suggests that mangoes have an even deeper history than we ever thought.

Southern vs Northern Mangoes

Joshi’s book emphasizes that there is no universal answer to mango flavors. The specific flavor of each variety is greatly influenced by the soil and climate of the region it comes from. When the same variety is grown somewhere else, it can look and taste different.

Southern mangoes, with their ideal balance of sugar and acidity, are better suited for travel. Northern mangoes, on the other hand, being sweeter, ripen too quickly and do not last as long. That is why people in North India often prefer Southern mangoes. Moreover, organized horticultural practices in South India help keep the mangoes in better condition, while rough handling in the North can affect their appearance. Seasonal factors also play a role: summer comes earlier in the South and the monsoon comes earlier.

How we grow mangoes

Joshi explains that mangoes can be grown in two ways: from seeds or by cloning the parent tree. Planting a mango seed can lead to unpredictable results, since mangoes don’t always reproduce consistently. So if you plant a seed from a mango you love, don’t be surprised if the new tree produces fruit that tastes different — or even new.

To achieve more consistent results, horticulturists use a cloning method. They graft a branch from the mother tree onto a young tree that has grown from a seed. The part below the graft comes from the seed, while the part above is a clone of the mother tree. This ensures that the new tree will produce fruit just like the original.

Joshi also notes that almost all the mangoes found in the market come from these grafted trees, known as ‘kalam’. The term, borrowed from Arabic, means pen, vegetative shoot or even whiskers. In the Mithila region of northern Bihar, a grove of these grafted trees is simply called a ‘kalam’.

History of Kalami Aam

When did mango grafting begin? Historians are still piecing together the story. In a 1956 book, Goa-born polymath and historian Damodar D. Kosambi suggested that Jesuit priests may have introduced mango grafting to Goa in the 16th century. In a 1946 study, Parashuram Krishna Gode, a Sanskrit and Prakrit scholar, was among the first to discuss grafting in a modern context. He cited historical references ranging from the sixth-century scholar Varahamihira’s Brihatsamhita to the 1886 Hobson-Jobson Glossary. Gode concluded that the art of grafting probably entered Indian horticulture around 1550 and was initially confined to Goa, spreading to places like Madras around 1798, thanks to figures like Clive, the Governor of Madras. The British officer Proby Cautley, known for his work on the Upper Ganga Canal, also contributed to the spread of grafted mangoes in the nineteenth century.

The Downside of Mango Ripening

In their haste to ripen mangoes quickly, many vendors turn to calcium carbide, a damaging shortcut. This powder, mixed with moisture, releases acetylene gas that speeds up the ripening process. It makes the mangoes look ripe on the outside, but the inside often remains unripe and starchy. So while the mangoes may look appetizing, they can end up tasting bland.

But there’s more to worry about. Calcium carbide can also damage the nutrients and vitamins in the fruit. In addition, it often contains impurities such as arsenic and other dangerous chemicals, which can contaminate the fruit and pose serious health risks. This can lead to symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhea, and skin irritation, with increased risks for pregnant women and workers who handle these chemicals in unsafe conditions. Animal studies have shown just how harmful calcium carbide can be. The Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) even banned its use for ripening fruit in 2011 due to these health concerns.

At the lower end of the market, some retailers are resorting to these dangerous practices to avoid losses. Calcium carbide becomes a last resort to meet demand, similar to how farmers use PBZ and pesticides. This desperation is driven by consumers who want mangoes as early as possible and are willing to pay high prices. For example, in March 2022, the first crates of Devgad Alphonso mangoes were auctioned for as much as ₹18,000 to ₹31,000 each in Pune.

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